The ten-ton bike takes a rest at the Stovepipe Wells general store

The themometer here reads 95 degrees F, so I'm thrilled to be at a store where I can get cold drinks. I devour two bottles of ice-cold Sobé grapefruit drink and two bags of potato chips. I tend to dislike salty food in real life, but bicycle trips, especially in hot weather, often alter my taste buds temporarily.

I take a $4, much-needed shower at the motel across the road and replace the warm water in my Camelbak with some cooler water from the tap outside the Stovepipe Wells Motel.

I visit the Stovepipe Wells ranger station and consider taking a camp site at the ugly RV campground behind the general store. However, I learn that it has already closed for the hot season, when there aren't so many visitors.

Camping isn't allowed in this part of Death Valley except in designated campgrounds, so my only choice is to camp at the Emigrant Campground 10 miles up the road (unless I want to ride a lot further than that).